Aquarium Fish Paradise - Adelaide SA

Golden Gourami – Trichogaster trichopterus

Rob — Sat, 25 Feb 2012 13:44:06 +0000

Golden Gourami

One of the most enjoyable community fish available today is the Golden Gourami. Their good looks and unique behaviour makes them the ideal fish for a larger tropical freshwater community tank. Golden Gourami’s are relatively large fish, growing to a maximum of 12cm. It has a beautiful bright orange colour and features long thin pelvic fins that are effectively used as feelers.

Common Name(s) : Goldenl Gourami
Family : Osphronemidae
Genus: Trichopodus
Species : Trichogaster trichopterus
Origin : Asia - Malaysia, Thailand, Burma, Vietnam
PH : 6.5 – 7.5
Hardness : Soft to Hard
Temperature : 23 – 28°C / 73–82°F
Maximum Size : 12cm / 4.8″
Lifespan : 5-6 years
Aggression Level : Medium-Low (4/10)
Recommended Tank Size : 65 Litres +
Recommended Tank Setup: Planted, Areas of subdued light, dark gravel for best effect
Strata : Middle – Top Half

TANK SET UP

Prefer a heavily planted tank. Add some driftwood plants to help create their natural environment.

Provide areas of subdued light in the aquarium to make them most comfortable

SUITABLE TANK MATES

Most Large / Medium Tropical Fish
Dwarf Cichlids
Guppies
Tetras

DIET

Omnivores, in the wild they eat insect larvae, crustaceans, zooplankton and plants. In the aquarium they will accept a wide range of foods including flake, small pellets, bloodworms and brine shrimp.

SEXING AND BREEDING

Female’s grow larger than males. A Gourami’s sex can be identified by the shape of the dorsal fin, which is long and pointed in males, compared to the female’s shorter rounded dorsal. b

To breed them, condition a male and a female on some frozen food like bloodworm or brine shrimp for several weeks, when the female is gravid (fat with eggs) remove her from the community tank and move her into another tank with little or no filtration (you need very little water flow at the top of the water) and some plants – even add a cave or ornament for the possibility a scared female can retreat once the deed is done. Ensure the new tank has a lid – bubble nests require warm air for eggs to do well.

After a few days, add the male to the same tank. The male will begin to build a bubble nest on top of the water. Once he has finished he will seek her attention as they will ‘dance” together before he squeezes the eggs from the female. He fertilizes the eggs, he will then place the eggs into the bubble nest.

At this time you must carefully remove the female (being sure not to disturb the bubble nest) from the aquarium because she will be niaive and will eat the eggs (which ensures he will attack and maybe kill her for..) and leave the male in there (as he does all the caring for the eggs) for the next 24 hours – at which time the eggs will hatch.

Of the the 600-800 eggs, only a handful of fry will survive, they can be raised on baby brine shrimp until old enough to take flake food or other frozen foods.

OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION

The Golden Gourami’s can be comical in antics amongst themselves in the aquarium and is nothing short of entertaining. They will chase one another around the tank, particularly after a feeding, that will consume you as you chuckle at their behavior while you wonder what will happen next. Generally this behavior signifies that they are not playing, but rather disputing territory.

Golden Gourami’s possess a labryinth organ, which allows them to breath air directly from the surface as well as under the water. You will notice them constantly visiting the water’s surface to grab a gulp of air. In the wild, this allows them to live in swamps or pools of low water quality.

Golden Gourami’s are omnivores and will eat a variety of foods including flake food, live or frozen brine shrimp, algae flakes, bloodworms, plants and green vegetables.

Golden Gourami’s are found in Malaysia, Thailand, Burma and Vietnam in southeast Asia where their natural habitat is heavily vegetated slow moving streams under subdued lighting of the jungle canopy. Golden Gourami’s upturned mouths make them excellent predators of small worms and crustaceans that they located near the waters surface.

Ideally Goldenl Gourami’s should be housed in aquariums that replicate their natural habitat – plenty of vegetation, low to moderate water movement and areas of subdued lighting. Darker substrates are ideal as they more closely mimic the peat covered river bottoms of their native rivers. Darker substrates and heavy vegetation will also bring out the brilliant gold coloration of the Gourami.

Golden Gourami are considered an easy species to keep in the home aquarium as they are both easy to feed and tolerant of a variety of water conditions and they will generally habitat the mid to top level of the aquarium.

VIDEO

Pearl Gourami – Trichogaster leeri

Rob — Sun, 12 Feb 2012 14:28:58 +0000

Male Pearl Gourami

A popular Gourami we sell for a tropical setup is the majestic Pearl Gourami. Pearl Gourami’s elongated body features a light brownish upper that fades to a white-silver colour in the lower body. Throughout the body there are “pearl like” dots. A thickened dark lateral line extends from the snout, through the eye and eventually fades as it arrives at the caudal fin. Males are more colourful featuring an orange rusty look to the “throat area” and pronounced anal fin area. Pearl Gourami’s feature long thin pelvic fins that are effectively used as feelers.

Common Name(s) : Pearl Gourami
Family : Osphronemidae
Genus: Trichopodus
Species : Trichopodus leerii
Origin : Asia - Malaysia, Borneo, Sumatra
PH : 6.5 – 7.5
Hardness : Soft to Hard
Temperature : 23 – 28°C / 73–82°F
Maximum Size : 12cm / 4.8″
Lifespan : 5-6 years
Aggression Level : Low-Medium (3/10)
Recommended Tank Size : 65 Litres +
Recommended Tank Setup: Planted, Areas of subdued light, dark gravel for best effect
Strata : Middle – Top Half

TANK SET UP

Prefer a heavily planted tank. Add some driftwood plants to help create their natural environment.

Provide areas of subdued light in the aquarium to make them most comfortable

SUITABLE TANK MATES

Most Large / Medium Tropical Fish
Dwarf Cichlids
Guppies
Tetras

DIET

Omnivores, in the wild they eat insect larvae, crustaceans, zooplankton and plants. In the aquarium they will accept a wide range of foods including flake, small pellets, bloodworms and brine shrimp.

SEXING AND BREEDING

Female’s grow larger than males. A Gourami’s sex can be identified by the shape of the dorsal fin, which is long and pointed in males, compared to the female’s shorter rounded dorsal. As previously mentioned, Pearl Gourami’s can also be sexed by the rusty orange colour in its “throat area” and extended anal finnage.

Of the the 600-800 eggs, only a handful of fry will survive, they can be raised on baby brine shrimp until old enough to take flake food or other frozen foods.

OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION

Pearl Gourami are considered an easy species to keep in the home aquarium as they are both easy to feed and tolerant of a variety of water conditions.

Pearl Gourami’s are found in Malaysia, Thailand, Sumatra and Borneo in southeast Asia where their natural habitat is heavily vegetated slow moving streams under subdued lighting of the jungle canopy. Pearl Gourami’s upturned mouths make them excellent predators of small worms and crustaceans that they located near the waters surface.

Ideally Pearl Gourami should be housed in aquariums that replicate their natural habitat – plenty of vegetation, low to moderate water movement and areas of subdued lighting. Darker substrates are ideal as they more closely mimic the peat covered river bottoms of their native rivers. Darker substrates and heavy vegetation will also bring out the brilliant coloration of the Pearl Gourami.

Pearl Gourami’s possess a labryinth organ, which allows them to breath air directly from the surface as well as under the water. You will notice them constantly visiting the water’s surface to grab a gulp of air. In the wild, this allows them to live in swamps or pools of low water quality.

Three Spot Gourami’s generally habitat the mid to top level of the aquarium.

VIDEO

Siamese Fighting Fish – Betta splendens

Rob — Mon, 06 Feb 2012 16:04:53 +0000

Crowntail Fighter

One of the most sought after ornamental freshwater fish in the industry is the Siamese Fighting Fish. Thanks to selective breeding, Fighters are today available in a range of colours and also various differing fin shapes.

Male Fighters all feature an elongated body, a superior mouth and a labyrinth organ. Male finnage can range from very short (naturally found in wild caught specimens) to the selective bred types such as Crowntail, Cambodian or Half Moon that feature brilliant extended dorsal, caudal and anal fins.

Common Name(s) : Siamese Fighting Fish

Common strains – Crowntail Fighting Fish, Cambodian Fighting Fish, Half Moon Fighting Fish, Shortfin Fighting Fish

Family : Osphronemidae

Genus: Betta

Species : Betta splendens

Origin : Asia - Thailand, Cambodia and Malaysia

Siamese Fighter

PH : 6.5 – 7.5

Hardness : Soft to Moderately Hard

Temperature : 18 – 28°C / 64.4–82°F

Maximum Size : 7-8cm / 2.7-3.1″

Lifespan : 3.5 years

Aggression Level : Medium-High (5.5/10) (Only males are aggressive to other males)

Recommended Tank Size : 1 Litre +

Strata : Middle – Top

TANK SET UP

Cambodian Fighter

Fighting Fish’s natural habitat is slow moving streams or lakes that are heavily vegetated. It is very beneficial for these fish to replicate the tank environment in a similar manner. Although Fighters do have the ability to survive in a small jar, they would much prefer to thrive in a smll planted tank with minimal filtration.

SUITABLE TANK MATES

Most Tropical Fish – I don’t recommend with Neon Tetras (Fighters eat them) or Male Guppies (they can mistake a guppy for another fighter – especially larger flowing tail varieties) or of course Barbs (fin nippers.) Also note Fighters can be an easy target for other fish due to their long fins, so be observant to notice if your fighter is being picked on. If he is hiding a lot generally the result of bullying.
Dwarf Cichlids
Goldfish

DIET

: Female Fighter

Fighting Fish are primarily carnivores – in the wild they will eat surface dwelling insects and larvae, zooplankton and small crustaceans.

We sell specially made fighter pellets to replicate their requirements that are made from a combination of mashed shrimp meal, wheat flour, fish meal, brine shrimp, bloodworms, and vitamins. These seem to work very well and I highly recommend them.

Occasionally we come across a fighter that won’t accept the fighter pellets and instead offer them bloodworms which should be greedily feasted on.

SEXING AND BREEDING

Sexing Ornamental Fighting Fish is fairly simple. Males generally are very colourful have the large “flowing” tail and a more assertive behavior. Females are a very average looking fish with very short finnage and are not aggressive at all.

Breeding Fighters is tricky but certainly achievable. In the tank you intend to breed in add and condition a mature female for a couple of weeks with brine shrimp or bloodworm.

The temperature of the breeding tank should be around 26-27°C (79-81°F) with PH around neutral.

When you think the female looks ready add a male to the tank.

Turn off the filter or slow it down to minimum flow (if it allows it.) This way the flow will not disturb the bubble nest. Add some floating plants.

It is quite humorous and entertaining watching the normally lethargic male fighter suddenly come to life and get busy and build his bubble nest .

Instantly he visits the top of the aquarium and will start suck in air from the surface then move under the nest and blow bubbles. When a layer of bubbles has been made he will proceed to collect bits of stem and leaves and stick them into his nest of bubbles. This strengthens the structure.

Once he is satisfied he trundles off back to the female and tries to capture her attention by swimming around the female with flared fins, attempting to draw her to the nest where he will continue his courting display.

: Half Moon Fighter

If she accepts the invitation she will follow him to below the nest and commonly the fish will swim head to tail in a circle in a courting routine.

When she is ready to spawn she touches the male on either the back or the tail with her mouth. Upon this signal the male will embrace the female, turning her first on her side and finally on her back before the female will release approximately 60-80 clear eggs.

The eggs are immediately fertilized by the male. Most of the eggs will float up into the bubblenest. Eggs that stray are collected by the male and placed in the nest. They will spawn again several more times releasing a total of 600 or so eggs.

When the spawning has finished remove the female as she will proceed to eat the eggs – which will infuriate the male. Be careful not to disturb the nest full of eggs. He will kill her if she is left in there.

After 24 hours the eggs begin to hatch and you might notice some tiny little wrigglers. After the third day the wrigglers will look to move away from the nest and this is the time that the male should be removed as he will possibly eat the young.

Raise the young on baby brine shrimp until they are big enough to accept crushed up flake food (perhaps 2-3 weeks.)

OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION

In most states of Australia the fighting fish will be fine with little or no heating for much of the year. However if you find the Fighter stops eating, then that might be a clear indication that the temperature of the water is too cold.

In the cooler months we recommend taking some steps to warm the water slightly to keep your fighting fish happy and long-lived. Ideally the temperature should stay above 18°C – but a temperature of around 24°C would be preferred.

The easiest way would be to add an aquarium heater to the setup (we sell specially made smaller 8W heaters for fighter or goldfish bowls) or a normal glass heater would suffice for an aquarium setup.

Other options include a heat mat placed below a bowl, or moving the fish into the warmest room in the house, turning the heating up in your house, I have even had one customer who had great success wrapping the bowl up in a towel !!

9 times out of 10 you can keep your fighter in a community setup. I have plenty of customers who keep them with goldfish or other tropical fish.

I have added an excellent youtube video of fighters breeding for your viewing pleasure.

VIDEO

Phantom Glass Catfish – Kryptopterus minor

Rob — Sun, 05 Feb 2012 13:40:25 +0000

Phantom Glass Catfish - Ghost Catfish

One of the most unusual looking fish for a tropical community is a Phantom Glass Catfish. They are unusual in that you can see straight through them !!!


Phantom Glass Catfish have an elongated body with a subterminal mouth that features extended feelers on either side. The anal fin extends almost from the head to the forked caudal fin. The head is a darkened colour, yet they are clear from their gills to the tail. Their bodies are totally devoid of scales.


Their skeleton is visible when looking side on and with a magnifying glass the heart can clearly be observed beating.

Common Name(s) : Phantom Glass Catfish, Ghost Fish, Ghost Catfish (not to be mistaken with the similar Poorman’s Glass Catfish that features lateral black lines and is not quite as see-through!)

Family : Siluridae

Genus: Kryptopterus

Species : Kryptopterus minor

Origin : Asia – Indonesia in the mainstreams of Borneo

PH : 6.6 – 7.5

Hardness : Soft to Hard

Temperature : 22 – 28°C / 72–82°F

Maximum Size : 8cm

Lifespan : 6-8 years

Aggression Level : Low (2/10)

Recommended Tank Size : 30 Litres +

Strata : Unusually for catfish – middle to top

TANK SET UP

A planted tank suits the Phantom Glass Catfish requirements. Bunch plants like Wisteria, Blue Stricta, Green Pennywort, Purple Temple will create lots of cover and some driftwood anubias plants and some rocks or ornaments will also be beneficial for them too.

These fish do minimal damage to plants for those of you looking for suitable fish for your planted tank.

SUITABLE TANK MATES

Tropical Fish
Dwarf Cichlids

DIET

Omnivores, in the aquarium they will take a wide range of foods including flake, pellets, vegetables, bloodworm or brine shrimp.

SEXING AND BREEDING

Sexing Phantom Glass Catfish is pretty much impossible. Your guess is as good as mine, but in the youtube video I have included at the bottom of this article you can observe two Phantom Glass Catfish “dancing” together and circling together which is common pre-breeding behaviour in many other specimens of ornamental fish I have seen.

What is known about their breeding is that they are egg layers and that there have been no reports of them spawning in an aquarium.

My advice to breed them would be to replicate their natural environment in the aquarium as best possible by adding plenty of driftwood, plants, rocks and keep the PH just slightly acidic – maybe about 6.8-6.9 and the temperature around 26°C. Keeping the light off for a few days may well help with the correct conditions.

Keep an eye out for unusual or heightened behavior from the fish, often this might occur after water changes, or if weather low pressure systems are above, certain phases of the moon or even warm weather.

You can document any findings at the blog at the bottom of this page for others to read.

OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION

I find that (as with many fish) water quality is vitally important in keeping these fish. Ensure your filtration is adequate and keep your feeding regular and minimal. In the wild they live near shorelines of rivers with strong current.

When these fish eat you can also see the food in the gut.

They do appreciate plants in the aquariums and it is strongly recommended you keep these fish in a school of at least 5-6 to maximize their life.

Tank companions should not be boisterous, tetras, dwarf gourami’s, most cat fish or dwarf cichlids are some that would make fine tank mates. I have also kept them with larger gourami’s, silver dollars and angelfish.

When you first bring Phantom Glass Catfish home from the aquarium shop it is good practice to turn the lights off before adding them. These can be a nervous fish moving into a new aquarium.

I have seen Glass Catfish get white spot a couple of times, probably due to their scaleless anatomy, so ensure your new stock has no visable signs before purchasing from your local aquarium shop and ensure the filtration, temperature, PH and necessary beneficial bacteria are all at sound levels in your home aquarium.

VIDEO

Swordtail – Xiphophorus helleri

Rob — Wed, 01 Feb 2012 15:38:03 +0000

Swordtail Green Male

Another popular livebearer for the tropical freshwater community setup is the unique Swordtail. Swordtails are available in a range of colours from red to green but are most popular for the male’s extended caudal fin which takes on the appearance of a sword.

The swordtail’s body is elongated, its pelvic fins are narrow yet pointed, dorsal fins are flattened slightly and the adult male features an extended caudal fin on its lower side. Commonly they feature a pronounced lateral line however due to selective breeding this is sometimes faint.

Females are plumper in body shape and do not feature a “sword” tail. Females take on the appearance of a platy, which incidently can crossbreed with swords in the aquarium quite easily.

Common Name(s) : Swordtail

Family : Poeciliidae

Genus: Xiphophorus

Species : Xiphophorus helleri

Koi Swordtail

Origin : Central America – Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras

PH : 6.8 – 7.5

Hardness : Moderate to Very Hard

Temperature : 22 – 28°C / 72–82°F

Maximum Size : Males – 12.5cm / 5″ Females – 8cm / 3.2″

Lifespan : 3-4 years

Aggression Level : Low (2.5/10)

Recommended Tank Size : 30 Litres +

Strata : All over

TANK SET UP

A planted tank suits the Swordtail requirements. Bunch plants like Wisteria, Blue Stricta, Green Pennywort, Purple Temple will create lots of hiding places for Swordtail fry.

To go one step further with with the breeding needs of fry, you could consider adding some Java Moss – a fast growing very bushy plant that is extremely dense and the perfect hiding place for the young baby fish. Anchor down the clump of Java Moss with a rock or driftwood.

SUITABLE TANK MATES

Tropical Fish
Dwarf Cichlids

DIET

Red Swordtail

Omnivores, in the aquarium they will take a wide range of foods including flake, pellets, vegetables, bloodworm or brine shrimp.

SEXING AND BREEDING

Adult male and female Swordtails are easy to distinguish. Males feature a “sword” tail while the females do not.

For sexing juvenile fish that not yet have swords, the males also have a modified anal fin, this is called the gonopodium. This is the male sexual organ. The gonopodium has the appearance of a horizontal fin that sits below the lower side of the fish, while a female features a triangular anal fin that is set back a little.

Swordtails are livebearers and are very easy to breed. The females are almost always pregnant and will give birth to live fish every 4 to 6 weeks. Often the mother will have between 20-100 fry.

Because these fish are avid breeders, it is recommended that at least 2-3 females should be kept to each male, so the females aren’t continually harassed. Also for the same reason, a tank housing both male and female Swordtails would ideally contain plants so the females can hide from keen males.

If you wish to breed Swordtails it is recommended that a separate breeding tank be set up to separate the mother from the community tank, taking at least half of the existing community tank water. If the mother is not separated and is allowed to give birth in the community tank, more than likely the fry will not survive as the other fish (even including the mother) will eat them.

Often birthing can be induced by raising the water temperature to 28C (however personally I do not recommend stressing the fish during any stage of pregnancy if it can be avoided.) After the birthing has finished, usually after 1 to 3 hours, the mother should be removed and returned to the community tank.

Raising the fry is reasonable simple. Being reasonable in size at around 1cm from birth, they can then be fed baby brine shrimp or fine crushed flake food. Water changes are needed regularly, even daily as the fragile fry are very susceptible to water pollution.

OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION

I have encountered some boisterous males that simply will not get on in certain aquariums. This is rare but can happen – generally these are a fine addition for most small-medium tanks.

Swordtails will generally inhabit the upper third level of an aquarium – but generally they will visit all areas..

Being omnivores, Swordtails will eat a wide variety of food. Guppies will accept and do well on flake along with live and frozen foods such as brine shrimp and bloodworms. Algae is an excellent food source and should be left to grow on certain ornaments or one side of the tank, so the fish can nibble on it between meals. It is a good source of vitamins B, C, D and E.

VIDEO

Guppy – Poecilia Reticulata

Rob — Tue, 24 Jan 2012 12:23:04 +0000

Male Guppy

The guppy is a very popular tropical fish for a community setup. This beautiful top dweller is an elongated fish with an up-turned mouth and smallish head. Males are smaller, but they feature a coloured body and have a large, colourful tail.

Females are larger, have a grey colour to the body and have a smaller tail that often has colour. Thanks to selective breeding, Guppies are available in almost every colour imaginable – hence their popularity.

Common Name(s) : Guppy

Family : Poeciliidae

Genus: Poecilia

Species : Poecilia reticulata

Origin : Central America / South America – Antigua and Barbuda, Barbados, Brazil, Guyana, the Netherlands Antilles, Trinidad and Tobago, the U.S. Virgin Islands and Venezuela.

PH : 6.8 – 7.5

Hardness : Moderate to Very Hard

Female Guppy

Temperature : 24 – 28°C / 75–82°F

Maximum Size : Males – 5cm / 2″ Females – 7cm / 2.9″

Lifespan : 3-4 years

Aggression Level : Low (1/10)

Recommended Tank Size : 30 Litres +

Strata : Top Half

TANK SET UP

A planted tank suits the Guppy requirements. Bunch plants like Wisteria, Blue Stricta, Green Pennywort, Purple Temple will create lots of hiding places for Guppy fry.

SUITABLE TANK MATES

Tropical Fish
Dwarf Cichlids

DIET

Omnivores, in the aquarium they will take a wide range of foods including flake, pellets, vegetables, bloodworm or brine shrimp.

SEXING AND BREEDING

Gonopodium on the male

Male and female guppies are easy to distinguish. Males generally are a brightly coloured fish, while the females are a drab grey – perhaps with a coloured tail. Males have a modified anal fin, this is called the gonopodium. This is the male sexual organ. Males can grow up to 4-5cm while females can get to 6-7cm.

Guppies are livebearers and are extremely easy to breed. The females are almost always pregnant and will give birth to live fish every 4 to 6 weeks. Often the mother will have between 20-70 fry.

Because these fish are avid breeders, it is recommended that at least 3 females should be kept to each male, so the females aren’t continually harassed. Also for the same reason, a tank housing both male and female guppies would ideally contain plants so the females can hide from keen males.

If you wish to breed the Guppy it is recommended that a separate breeding tank be set up to separate the mother from the community tank, taking at least half of the existing community tank water. If the mother is not separated and is allowed to give birth in the community tank, more than likely the fry will not survive as the other fish (even including the mother) will eat them.

Often birthing can be induced by raising the water temperature to 28C. After the birthing has finished, usually after 1 to 3 hours, the mother should be removed and returned to the community tank.

Raising the fry is reasonable simple. They should be feed on liquid fry food for the first three days. They can then be moved onto baby brine shrimp or fine crushed flake food. Water changes are needed regularly, even daily as the fragile fry are very susceptible to water pollution.

OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION

One of the most popular tropical community fish regularly found in home aquariums today is the Guppy. This beautiful aquarium fish features bright colour’s and an attractive coloured tail.

Originating from Central and South America, the Guppy was originally found in Mountain Streams as well as brackish rivers. Feral populations of Guppies can now be found around the world. In the wild Guppies are not very colourful and are usually olive green. Tank bred Guppies come in many varieties of colour’s and patterns.

Guppies are a very popular aquarium fish. They are perfectly at home in a peaceful community aquarium. They will generally inhabit the upper third level of an aquarium.

Being omnivores, Guppies will eat a wide variety of food. Guppies will accept and do well on flake along with live and frozen foods such as brine shrimp and bloodworms. Algae is an excellent food source and should be left to grow on certain ornaments or one side of the tank, so the fish can nibble on it between meals. It is a good source of vitamins B, C, D and E.

VIDEO

Silver Shark – Balantiocheilos melanopterus

Rob — Mon, 23 Jan 2012 16:09:02 +0000

Silver Sharks

Silver Sharks (commonly also referred to as Bala Sharks) are by far the most sought after freshwater shark in the aquarium trade. Young specimens are a thin, narrow fish with sharp triangular fins that feature black surrounding edges. The Silver Shark’s body offers a stunning colour of silver, some with light brown through the back of the shark and usually found with a white belly.

Common Name(s) : Silver Shark, Bala Shark

Family : Cyprinidae

Genus: Balantiocheilos

Species : Balantiocheilos melanopterus

Origin : Asia – Sumatra, Thailand, Borneo, Maylasia

PH : 6.5 – 7.5

Hardness : Soft to Medium

Temperature : 24 – 28°C / 75–82°F

Maximum Size : 33cm / 13″

Lifespan : 6-10 years

Aggression Level : Low-Medium (3/10) (Larger specimens may eat small tetras)

Recommended Tank Size : 150 Litres +

Strata : Bottom Half

TANK SET UP

Enjoy a planted tank with the addition of rocks, driftwood or ornaments for some cover.

SUITABLE TANK MATES

Tropical Fish
Dwarf Cichlids
Some African Cichlids
Some American Cichlids

DIET

Omnivores, in the aquarium they will take a wide range of foods including flake, pellets, vegetables, bloodworm or brine shrimp.

SEXING AND BREEDING

Sexing is difficult, no distinguishable differences between sexes. Suggested males grow larger, but this thin information.

It is unlikely these fish will breed in the aquarium however they are egg scatterers.

OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION

I joke with customers sometimes that the Silver Shark is the dumbest fish going around in the aquarium trade. Skittish is probably a more accurate description, they are quick to leap out of the water if surprised.

We find them very hardy often easing into new aquariums well. They do prefer soft to moderately hard water and are very comfortable in PH levels of 6.5 – 7.5.

These fish certainly do better in a school – not only that but they look sensational gliding just above the substrate in a group.

They can grow up to 33cm+ and therefore it is recommended to place them in a tank no smaller than 3ft.

You will mostly find Silver Sharks in the bottom third of the tank. They are a showy fish that you will commonly find hanging around in around the open spaces at the front of the aquarium.

They enjoy most foods, but particularly enjoy live brine shrimp and blackworms, but will also do well on a combination of flake, frozen foods, vegetables and plants. Silver Sharks are omnivore therefore enjoy a varied diet.

VIDEO

Rainbow Shark – Epalzeorhynchos frenatum

Rob — Mon, 23 Jan 2012 15:10:51 +0000

Rainbow Shark

An attractive shark with its grey body and red-orange finnage is the boisterous Rainbow Shark. They are narrow and elongated with a pointy snout and flat abdominal area. They feature a down-facing mouth, with two set of barbels.

Common Name(s) : Rainbow Shark

Family : Cyprinidae

Genus: Epalzeorhynchos

Species : Epalzeorhynchos frenatum

Origin : Asia – Indonesia and Thailand.

PH : 6.5 – 7.5

Hardness : Soft to Moderately Hard

Temperature : 24 – 28°C / 75–82°F

Maximum Size : 15cm / 6″

Lifespan : 5-6 years

Aggression Level : Medium-High (7/10) (Territorial especially to other cave dwellers)

Recommended Tank Size : 150 Litres +

Strata : Bottom Half

TANK SET UP

In the wild these fish live over a sandy bottom however it is vitally important in the aquarium that Rainbow Sharks are provided with some cover.

Take note if you also have some other fish that like to escape light (eg Black Ghost Knife) then you will certainly have to provide a covered territory for each. Rainbow Sharks notoriously defend a territory and refuse to share with any squatters.

We find Rainbow Sharks another good choice for a planted tank – take note however the plants must be the hardy, tough type. Plants with “soft” leaves will be consumed by your Rainbow Shark. Suggest Anubias plants, Java Fern, Blue Stricta and Amazon Swords. A heavily planted tank minimizes the territorial behavior this fish is known for.

Also add driftwood, ornaments or rocks to make plenty of hiding places. Certainly make 2-3 different caves at a minimum.

SUITABLE TANK MATES

Tropical Fish
African Cichlids
Some American Cichlids

DIET

Rainbow Sharks need vegetable matter in their diet to grow properly. They are keen feeders and will grow fast. They enjoy algae wafers, pellets, blood worms, brine shrimp, also will feast on green vegetables like cucumber or zucchini that are skewered on a teaspoon and sunk to the bottom.

SEXING AND BREEDING

Sexing is difficult, however females are plumper. It is unlikely these fish will breed in the aquarium. however there has been some events documented.

A male might curl around a gravid female and fertilize the eggs as they come out. Details are sketchy.

OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION

Rainbow sharks are a mildly aggressive community fish if the aquarium has been set up poorly. Ensure there are plenty of hiding places and plenty of tough plants.

They will find their own territory in the aquarium (usually a cave type dwelling) and will defend it stoutly. I find older specimens to be a lot more mellow than 6-8cm specimens.

Rainbow Sharks grow to a maximum size of 15cm and are best to be suited to a aquarium of 3 ft plus. They grow quite quickly and are keen eaters. You will often catch them feeding on some algae around the tank or foraging through the substrate looking for food.

Albino Rainbow Shark - aka "Golden Shark"

Being an omnivore, Rainbow Sharks like a varied diet. They love green vegetables, flake, pellets, algae wafers, brine shrimp and bloodworms.

Soft to medium water is best suited to them with PH levels of 6.8 – 7.4 but they are quite hardy in slightly more alkaline water. Don’t let the water get too acidic.

You will often find them to the rear of the aquarium often hiding behind logs, rocks, caves & plants. They are more active at night time or when the lights are off.

There is also an albino variety of Rainbow Shark – they are sold in Australia as Golden Shark or Albino Shark, sometimes as Albino Rainbow Shark. I find this variation not as territorial.

All in all if you have the correct setup for these fish then I find they are a good aquisition for a community aqaurium – particularly of larger specimens.

VIDEO

Flying Fox – Crossocheilus Siamensis

Rob — Sun, 22 Jan 2012 16:29:36 +0000

Flying Fox Shark

If you have clumps of that green hair or black beard algae growing in your tank then you might want to consider adding the resourceful Siamese Flying Fox to your aquarium. These fish are well known for grazing on hair or beard algae, but in addition is a fine looking fish that is extremely reliable, peaceful and long lived.

Common Name(s) : Flying Fox, Siamese Flying Fox, Flying Fox Shark, Real Flying Fox Shark

Family : Cyprinidae

Genus: Epalzeorhynchos

Species : Epalzeorhynchos kalopterus

Origin : Asia – Borneo, Java and Sumatra in Indonesia of Southeast Asia. They are also found in Thailand.

PH : 6.0 – 8.0

Hardness : Soft to Hard

Temperature : 24 – 28°C / 75–82°F

Maximum Size : 15cm / 6″

Lifespan : 6-8 years

Aggression Level : Low (2/10)

Recommended Tank Size : 30 Litres +

Strata : Bottom Half

TANK SET UP

Flying Foxes being bottom dwellers enjoy plants, rocks or ornaments for areas of cover. These fish are perfect to go with plants as they keep them free of hair algae.

SUITABLE TANK MATES

Tropical Fish
Dwarf Cichlids

DIET

Omnivores, in the aquarium they will take a wide range of foods including flake, pellets, vegetables, bloodworm or brine shrimp.

SEXING AND BREEDING

Sexing is difficult, however females are plumper.

It is unlikely these fish will breed in the aquarium.

OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION

If you keep a Bristlenose Catfish to keep algae down on the glass of your tank you might consider getting a couple of these guys to totally control all types of algae in the freshwater aquarium.

The Siamese Flying Fox is every aquarists’ dream. Originating in fast flowing streams in Thailand, they are hardy, attractive, active and a fast swimmer. They thrive best in schools but can also be kept alone or in pairs.

The flying fox fish has a elongated body with a flat abdominal area. Its dorsal area has a coloration ranging from olive to dark brown. The lower half of its body has a yellowish white hue. A brownish-black line is apparent from its mouth, eye and the caudal fins. On top of this brownish-black line is a gold-colored stripe. They feature a set of barbells around their mouth and a stressed fish may see its black stripe fade.

Flying foxes are strong jumpers and should not be kept in an uncovered tank.

Flying Foxes grow to an impressive 10-15cm and are great community fish for a typical tropical setup. Amore common size is 12cm in an aquarium.

Those with a planted tank, take note, these fish rarely damage live plants, they just clean them. They are the perfect addition for the planted tank.

The hardiness of this fish is one of its best features. They can tolerate a PH between 5.5 to 8.0 – but a PH of 6.5-7.5 is best. They prefer softer water but seem to do well in a wide range of water hardness.

They readily take tropical flake food but should be supplemented with algae wafers once all the algae is gone. Green food such as algae wafers or some zuccini or cucumber should be fed to ensure plants remain untouched. They also accept frozen foods.

Females are rounder than males but generally both are a slender type fish. There have been limited reports of them breeding in a tank.

Your Flying Fox should survive at least 5 years and there are reports of them lasting 10 years in the aquarium.

VIDEO

Neon Blue Dwarf Gourami – Trichogaster lalius (formerly known as Colisa lalia)

Rob — Sun, 22 Jan 2012 15:55:12 +0000

Neon Blue Dwarf Gourami

A popular choice of Dwarf Gourami is the iridescent Neon Blue Dwarf Gourami. Sought after males of this selectively bred specimen only grows to 2 inches and is a beautiful light blue with perhaps slight bits of red stripes all over its body. The body is oval-shaped, anal and dorsal fins begin in the front part of the body and almost extend to the fan-shaped caudal fin. They feature touch-sensitive cells on their extended thread-like pelvic fins. Females are smaller and a dull silver colour.

Common Name(s) : Neon Blue Dwarf Gourami

Family : Osphronemidae

Genus: Trichogaster

Species : Trichogaster lalius (formerly known as Colisa lalia)

Origin : Asia - Pakistan, India and Bangladesh

PH : 6.5 – 7.5

Hardness : Soft to Moderately Hard

Temperature : 24 – 28°C / 75–82°F

Maximum Size : 7cm / 2.7″

Lifespan : 4-5 years

Aggression Level : Low-Medium (3/10)

Recommended Tank Size : 30 Litres +

Strata : Middle – Top

TANK SET UP

Dwarf Gourami’s natural habitat is slow moving streams or lakes that are heavily vegetated. It is very beneficial for these fish to replicate the tank environment in a similar manner.

Plenty of bunch plants like Wisteria or Blue Stricta should be planted, some driftwood plants will add to the effect while rocks or ornaments will finish off the display with a nice look.

SUITABLE TANK MATES

Tropical Fish
Dwarf Cichlids

DIET

Omnivores, in the aquarium they will take a wide range of foods including flake, pellets, vegetables, bloodworm or brine shrimp.

SEXING AND BREEDING

Sexing is easy with Dwarf Gourami’s. Put simply males are larger and coloured, females are smaller and silverish. In an aquarium shop it is rare to see a female, but they are available to be ordered upon request.

Breeding Dwarf Gourami’s is certainly achievable. In the tank you intend to breed in add and condition a female for a couple of weeks with brine shrimp or bloodworm.

The temperature of the breeding tank should be around 26-27°C (79-81°F) with PH around neutral.

When you think the female looks ready add a male to the tank.

Turn off the filter or slow it down to minimum flow (if it allows it.) This way the flow will not disturb the bubble nest. Add some floating plants.

It is quite humorous and entertaining watching the normally lazy male Dwarf Gourami suddenly come to life and get busy and build his bubble nest .

If she accepts the invitation she will follow him to below the nest and commonly the fish will swim head to tail in a circle in a courting routine.

Raise the young on baby brine shrimp until they are big enough to accept crushed up flake food (perhaps 2-3 weeks.)

OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION

Dwarf Gourami’s are a beautiful addition to a planted tropical tank. They tend to keep to themselves and seems to be the way they like it.

They don’t however always get along with larger tank mates, larger Gourami’s such as Golden Gourami’s, Three Spot Gourami’s, Pearl Gourami’s or Opaline Gourami’s tends to end with your Dwarf Gourami being bullied and then with a premature death.

Dwarf Gourami’s often choose a corner of the aquarium as their own and stoutly defend it from any curious intruder.